The Full Plate Cooks: Fall 2012

Autumn Reflections

Daylight savings has begun, an election has passed, and despite the unusual warmth in Silicon Valley, the wind carries a faint wisp of chill - autumn is in the air. In the swirl that is social media, I have moved most of my food and cooking activities over to Facebook and Yelp, but a good friend recently reminded me that Thanksgiving is coming, and I would be remiss to not post some recipes on my old blog for the season. (Although I've done just that for the past couple of years!)  But to make up for lost time, here are some of my fall-to-winter favorites:

Clam Chowder in Sourdough with Parmesan Lace

Adapted from Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything

¾ cup cooked bacon, chopped  (approximately 8 slices or 1 package)

2 cups onions (preferably yellow), chopped

1 cup celery, chopped

1 cup carrots, diced

2-3 cups Yukon gold potatoes

2 tsp fresh thyme leaves (or ½ tsp dried thyme)

4 cups clam juice (can also substitute 2 cups clam, 2 cups chicken broth)

2 cups low-fat milk (can substitute fat-free)

2 cups half-and-half (can substitute fat-free half-and-half)

2 cans clams, diced

2 tbsp butter (optional)

Sea salt, to taste

Pepper, to taste

4 small sourdough boules

Garnish: Parmesan Lace

1. Fry bacon in large skillet on medium-high until crisp, and chop into bits.
2. Sauté onion, potatoes, and thyme in same skillet, in bacon fat until onion softens, about 10 minutes.
3. Add clam juice and cook until potatoes are tender, about 10-20 minutes depending on density and chop-size of potatoes.
4. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.
5. Reduce to “LOW” and add milk and half-and-half.
6. Add clams and bring to simmer over low heat, 5-10 minutes.  DO NOT LET SOUP BOIL (or milk/cream will separate or burn).
7. Add butter and simmer for another 5 minutes.
8. Stir in bacon.
9. Garnish & serve in sourdough bowl or with sourdough bread

Parmesan Lace

1. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or silicone mat.
2. Using a tablespoon, place grated parmegiano-reggiano cheese in small mounds spaced at least 3 inches apart.
3. Bake on the middle rack in the oven for 5 minutes until melted and golden.
4. Let cool.
5. Place each lace piece on top of the chowder as a garnish.

The Full Plate Cooks: Crunchy Garlic Chicken

Inspired by Jamie Oliver's great cookbook, Food Revolution, eponymous with his new television show, I recently cooked up a slightly modified version of Jamie's Crunchy Garlic Chicken. Totally delicious, even my picky preschooler gobbled it up in seconds. I used organic free-range chicken, but you'll want to be careful with these leaner meats, they cook up quicker than their fattier counterparts and can lose succulence. The key here is to pound out the chicken to tenderize, but also to create a thinner piece for consistent, even cooking. A votre sante!

2 cloves garlic

1 lemon (for zest and garnish)

1/2 cup panko crumbs (instead of cracker crumbs)

2 T butter

4 sprigs fresh Italian parsley (easy to grow in your own garden!)

sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

2 T flour

1 large egg, organic/free-range

2 skinless chicken breasts, organic/free-range (you can use thighs too)

olive oil

1. Coating: Mix together minced garlic, lemon zest, butter, parsley, salt, and pepper. Place the crumb mixture onto a flat cookie sheet or plate. Sprinkle flour onto a separate plate. Crack an egg, whisk, and put onto a third separate plate.

3. Score the underside of chicken breasts; cover with plastic wrap and pound with a mallet until breasts are flattened.

4. Dip chicken first into flour until coated, then dip into egg, and finally dredge in crumb mixture.

5. Heat up frying pan on medium, add olive oil, and pan-fry chicken breasts for 4-5 minutes on each side, until cooked through. Chicken will be crispy and golden brown.

6. Serve with lemon, ranch dressing, and a fresh green salad.

We could eat this EVERY night!

Silicon Valley Cooks: Real Food

Last year, I had a dilemma. An omnivore's dilemma (as I would later discover). What should I eat? I just had a baby and needed to lose the "baby weight," but more importantly - knowing I had a new life to nurture and grow, I wanted to be healthy and strong. During that time, I dove deep into my own exploration of the best foods for our bodies, and was deeply influenced by T. Colin Campbell's compelling, seminal work - "The China Study." But I also found it enormously confusing, as it essentially argues that animal protein, particularly casein - a dairy protein - causes cancer, while vegetable proteins turn the cancer switch "off." The conclusion is that we should all be vegan, or as vegan as possible. So, I went vegan/vegetarian for a month, and experimented with every kind of a tofu and soy product on the market to replace our meat intake. And while some products were passable, I couldn't shake the feeling that despite the healthy vegan label, these products were still highly-processed "frankenfood." I also felt that the China Study's conclusion was inconsistent with research studying the longest-lived cultures on the earth, all of whom partake of some animal or dairy protein in their traditional diets, yet they still live exceptionally long, disease-free lives. Rather than swearing off meat and dairy off, it seems humans are meant to eat animal protein - the key here is quality and quantity. I also knew from reading a multitude of pediatric nutrition books that animal fat and protein is essential for brain growth and development in young children, and I eventually found it logistically difficult and time-consuming to be cooking a vegan/vegetarian meal for myself, while cooking with meat and dairy for the rest of my family.

For awhile, it just got so frustrating, I wanted to give up - my internal questioning while grocery shopping was incessant: Splenda or stevia? Organic or grass-fed? Low-fat or no fat? Omega 3 or free range? High fructose corn syrup or evaporated cane juice? Walking up and down the supermarket aisles was a mental battle, and I was weary of the weekly chore.

But then, guided by intuition, I found the answers I had been looking for in The Real Food Movement, led by the work of proponents and writers such as Michael Pollan ("Food Rules," "The Omnivore's Dilemma") and Nina Planck ("Real Food: What to Eat and Why"). I had earlier come across the ideals of Alice Waters through Chez Panisse and her cookbooks, and living in California, seasonal/local/sustainable has long been embraced - but for my daily cooking life, it always seemed out of reach - too expensive, too inconvenient, too hippy-ish for our lifestyle. But I was wrong. The best part about Real Food is that it's simple, and the rules are easy to follow. Purchase and prepare food that is recognizable, food that can be easily traced to its original source in the land. Anything else, forget about. I now walk through my supermarkets with confidence, instead of wracked with worry and indecision, and look forward to the fresh food on my table that inspires me to cook every night. What's for dinner is no longer drudgery, but a rewarding labor of love that I know is good for us.

Arugula Leaves with Avocado & Blueberries

Now that everything in my fridge is REAL, I have the pleasure of throwing together any combination of fresh ingredients with assurance that it will be delicious and healthy; I love the spontaneity and surprise of the colors, texures, and flavors. Here's a random creation that became an instant hit at home, and hope you enjoy it, too. Ingredients: baby arugula, blueberries, avocado slices, lemon zest. Toss with balsamic vinaigrette. (Photo shown above.)

Silicon Valley Eats: Boba

One notable characteristic of the Silicon Valley area is its ethnic and cultural diversity. While there are pockets of majorities that exercise both influence and affluence, there are also sizeable, empowered minority groups. In the Bay area in particular, according to the Census, approximately one-third of the population is Asian. It's probably not entirely surprising, given that the Chinese first migrated and began settling in San Francisco in 1848. San Francisco's Chinatown was the first in North America, and is considered the largest Chinese community outside of Asia. What does this history lesson bring me to? One thing - BOBA.

For the uninitiated, "boba" sounds kind of funny, conjuring up images of clowns, Star Wars, or dirty slang words overused by teenage boys. However, the term is as wonderfully hybridized as the drink itself. Yes, that's right. It's a beverage. "Boba" is the Chinese word-phrase that was actually derived from the English word "bubble." It describes large, round, black tapioca balls that look like dark bubbles that are contained in the drink; hence, "boba." An alternative account is that the drink first started out by adding fruit flavors to the tea. When the flavoring was added, it had to be shaken to properly incorporate the flavor into the tea. This resulted in a bubbly, foamy tea drink, affectionately called "boba." Whatever the true version, the result is the same - "Boba" is a flavored-tea beverage that often includes black tapioca balls - it's a dessert drink that you can chew. It goes by various names and incarnations: in Vancouver, I drank it as Pearl Tea; in Los Angeles, it was Bubble Tea; in Hong Kong, we called it Sago. Flavors range from more traditional Asian flavors, like green bean and grass jelly, to "westernized" flavors like green apple and strawberry, with or without milk, with or without ice or slushed ice. For the textured additions, you can have boba, small boba (small black or white tapioca balls), various jellies (small, fruit-flavored gelatin cubes), sweet beans, and pudding. I must warn you that once you've had it, it's hard to shake off - you may begin to crave it, especially late at night with friends before or after a good movie - because, like with so many foods, it has become not just a drink, but a pleasurable, sweeping social custom and culture.

My favorite fix in this area is Verde Tea Cafe, a Taiwanese cafe that, like many other boba places, features boba as its main star, but also includes Asian cafe staples like "thick toast" and "fried cuttlefish." I usually order an Earl Grey milk tea with pudding, hold the boba (I know, ironic). Another good pick is Fantasia Coffee & Tea - just in case the lines are too long at Verde!

The Full Plate Cooks: Thanksgiving 2009

Sausage & Cranberry Cornbread Stuffing

I should probably rename this the Thanksgiving Feast Blog, as I seem to only be checking in once a year these days. This year was more challenging than previous years in every aspect of my life - family, children, friends, church, work, school, house - and a golden-hued autumn slipped away from me almost unnoticed. But I did manage to steal a few moments for reflection amongst the white oaks and redwoods that grace this region, and counted my blessings, which I was thankful were as numerous as the leaves in a lush forest.

Thanksgiving was the typical flurry of activity with preparations for an army of 51 this year. The role I play is mainly that of co-host, cook, and cleaner, so my heart sank quietly when I saw that the house-host decided to use china, and not Chinet. A much more beautiful setting to celebrate to be sure, but a rather dismal way to end an already labor-intensive day. Thankfully (how fitting), a good friend was kind enough to help me out, and we were able to enjoy a few good laughs as we washed and dried late into the night.

On my full plate this year:

Roasted Autumn Vegetables

3 small zucchini, cubed

3 sweet potatoes, cubed

1 medium red onion, cut into chunks

2 chinese eggplant, roll cut

1 large red bell pepper, cut into chunks

2 portabella mushrooms

1 large head garlic, unpeeled, top cut

10 cloves garlic, peeled

1/4 cup high-quality balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

salt, to taste

fresh rosemary, to taste

fresh parsley, to taste

1. Prepare vegetables in large mixing bowl.

2. Coat vegetables with oil, vinegar, salt, and herbs.

3. Roast at 400F for about an hour.

4. Ready when sweet potatoes are fork-tender.

5. Garnish with fresh rosemary sprigs.

Double-Shelled Pumpkin Pie

I have never understood why pumpkin pie has to have just one crust, and for a crust-lover like me, I attempted to defy convention and see just what would happen if I made pumpkin pie the way I make blueberry pie, cherry pie, or apple pie. So what did happen? Flaky, tender, creamy deliciousness...mmmmmmmmm. I may never again make pumpkin pie the old way.

2 9" pie-shell crusts (store-bought or homemade)

1 can pumpkin puree (but homemade - as shown in the photo - tastes, feels, and looks so much better - just roast a sugar pumpkin in the oven for about 1.5 hours at 350F, scoop out the flesh, puree and add spices, it's AMAZING!)

1 1/3 cup condensed milk

1 egg

1 1/4 tsp cinnamon

1/2 tsp nutmeg

1/2 tsp ginger

1/4 tsp cloves

1 cup hot water

1. Pour pumpkin mixture into pie shell.

2. Lay second shell on top, and crimp the edges.

3. Brush top with egg-wash and sprinkle with raw sugar.

3. Bake at 375F for 55-65 minutes.

Chestnut Cream Pie

I developed a bit of a pie obsession this year, and throughout this season, I could not resist the mouth-watering aroma of roasted chestnuts every time I walked into the store. So of course I had to get some. Roasting and pureeing chestnuts is incredibly time-intensive, and requires a lot of patience. It's worth the effort, but if you don't have the time, opt for a can of chestnut puree or cream although it can be difficult to find.

1 9" pre-baked pie shell

2 cups chestnut puree

1 cup whipping cream

chocolate sprinkles or curls, for garnish

Chestnut Cream

1 1/2 pounds chestnuts

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

1 cup whipped

cream

1 tsp vanilla extract

milk

1. Peel chestnuts and boil until soft in milk, just enough to cover, then drain through a sieve.

2. In separate sauce pot, combine sugar and water and cook for 10 minutes to make simple syrup.

3. Add chestnut puree to syrup and cool.

4. Add vanilla and whipped cream, and combine until smooth.

Thanksgiving Congee

Are you tired of turkey sandwiches the day - and week - after Thanksgiving? Put those turkey bones and leftovers to better use by making turkey congee (rice porridge), an Asian comfort food with an American twist.

2 cups rice

6 cups water

3 cups chicken broth

1 large turkey leg bone with meat

1 piece peeled ginger, sliced

salt

1. In a large pot, bring water, broth, turkey leg, ginger, and rice to a boil.

2. When it reaches a boil, turn heat down to medium-low. Place tilted lid on top to allow steam to vent.

3. Cook on medium-low heat until rice has thickened, stirring occasionally.

4. Discard ginger. Remove turkey leg. Remove turkey meat from bone and cut or shred into chunks, and add back into congee. Add salt to taste.

5. Garnish with green onions, peanuts, fresh ginger (matchsticks), sesame oil, and/or soy sauce, to taste.

The Full Plate Cooks: Thanksgiving 2008

It has been a little over a year since our migration up north to Silicon Valley from La-La land. The anniversary is marked by Thanksgiving, since that was our first holiday celebrated here in our new hometown with family and friends. Last year, we helped host a massive meal at my in-law's home, and this year, we carried on the annual tradition of a Thanksgiving extravaganza for 35 guests. In SoCal, we hosted our fete the week before Turkey Day, also often a production for about 20-25 guests, which conveniently freed up our schedule to accept invitations and travel to others' homes to enjoy and honor their own family's traditions.

Prior to my life in the United States, I celebrated the autumnal harvest in October, where cold Canadian winters compelled Canucks to move up the day of festivity. Thanksgiving back then was a cozy, intimate affair that usually involved no more than 12 people, and I cherish wonderful memories of preparing the turkey and all the sides with my mother and sister, an eclectic fusion of Western and Asian cuisines that resulted in a luscious seafood yee-mein dish, a side that often became the centerpiece alongside our buttery, herb-roasted turkey. Out of sheer nostalgia and the passage of time, I intend to resurrect Canadian Thanksgiving in our home next year in addition to our American celebration, in another fusion of cultures and forging of new traditions.

As I wisely defer to my mother-in-law for the turkey (and let's face it, her turkey is amazing - why mess with a good thing?), I focused again this year on complementary and satiating sides. This year's menu included (1) bacon mashed potatoes; (2) jumbo swedish-style turkey meatballs; (3) roasted sweet potatoes; (4) sausage, cranberry & apple stuffing, and (5) two kinds of fudge: white chocolate cranberry walnut, and dark chocolate walnut. With a preschooler in tow, and my tummy looming larger every day with a baby on the way, I kept things as simple as possible primarily by inventing my own recipes but without sacrificing the most important thing - taste!

Bacon Mashed Potatoes
20 yukon gold potatoes, peeled, boiled and cubed

1.5 tablespoons of crushed garlic
1.5 cups butter
0.5 cup half-and-half

(in a pinch, you can also use a yukon gold mix and seasoning packet instead of the above ingredients)
12 slices of bacon, cooked and chopped
(you can also substitute prepackaged bacon bits)
1 bunch chives, diced
0.5 cup sour cream
2 cups cheddar, shredded

1. In large mixing bowl, prepare mashed potatoes with butter, half-and-half, and garlic.
2. Gently fold in bacon, chives, and cheddar, reserving a little bit of each for the topping.
3. Pour and evenly smooth potatoes into a casserole dish. Layer on cheddar (which will melt due to the heat of the potatoes), chives, and bacon bits.
4. Put sour cream into pastry bag with tip (or plastic ziplock bag with small cut corner) and drizzle sour cream on top.
Serves 15-20.

Jumbo Swedish-Style Meatballs

Meatballs:
4 lbs. ground lean turkey
2 slices bread, soaked in warm water
0.75 cup italian-seasoned breadcrumbs
2 eggs
1 tablespoon Lawry's seasoning
Cream Sauce:
1 can evaporated milk
1 can condensed cream of mushroom soup
1 can condensed cream of chicken soup
1 package Lipton onion soup mix
milk or water, as needed

1. In a large mixing bowl, work together turkey, bread, breadcrumbs, eggs, and seasoning until evenly combined.
2. Form meat mixture into large balls and place on large sprayed pans.
3. Bake at 350F for 40 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, in a heavy saucepan on medium heat, stir together milk, soup, and soup mix until it reaches a slow boil. Reduce heat to low and allow to simmer. Add in millk or water as needed to thin out texture or lighten taste.
Makes 40-50 jumbo meatballs.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes

I have made sweet potatoes in every which way possible it seems: with bourbon, orange juice, maple syrup, candied with butter and brown sugar, as a pie with marshmallows, mashed, smashed, and french fried with pink ginger. But the best by far is the way my mother cooked them -roasted in tin foil - pure, unadulterated deliciousness.

12 sweet potatoes

tin foil

1. Chop sweet potatoes into halves or thirds.

2. Wrap each piece in tin foil and prick with fork to vent steam.

3. Roast in oven at 350F for an hour.

Fudge Two Ways

The variations for the classic Eagle Brand recipe are endless - experiment with your own unique mix of ingredients!

Dark Chocolate & Walnut:

1 can condensed milk

3 cups dark or semi-sweet chocolate chips

pinch salt

0.75 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

1.5 tsp vanilla extract

White Chocolate, Cranberry & Walnut:

1 can condensed milk

3 cups white chocolate chips

pinch salt

0.75 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

1.5 tsp vanilla extract

1. In heavy saucepan on low, melt chocolate chips with milk and salt.

2. Remove from heat, and stir in nuts and vanilla. If you want a swirl effect, add in another type of chocolate (e.g. dark chocolate chips to white chocolate mixture).

3. Spread evenly into paper-lined square pan, or cup-lined mini-muffin tin.

4. Chill in fridge for 2 hours or until firm. Cut into squares or serve as fudge cups. Makes lovely gifts.

Makes 20-24 fudge squares.

Apple, Sausage & Cranberry Stuffing

I used the same recipe as last year, but switched up the

chestnuts with apples for extra sweetness and used a smoky,

bell pepper and onion sausage.

Silicon Valley Eats: American/Steakhouses (2)

If you're craving a juicy steak in a classy setting but don't want to make a trek to the City, look no further than Alexander's in Cupertino, a surprising but convenient location. Alexander's has a fantastic ambience that is quietly sophisticated yet hip enough to rival some of the best steakhouses in metropolises like Los Angeles. Upon entering, you are ushered into a spacious lobby with modern seating adjacent to a fireplace. Muted taupes coat the walls which are well-matched by the espresso leather furnishings.

Service is impeccable, perhaps one of the best restaurants I have ever been to in this regard. Although some would hesitate, we brought along our young toddler to share in a special family occasion. The waitstaff didn't bat an eyelash or look down long noses, instead they scooped up and swept away dangerous steakknives and wine glasses, and within minutes, offered a snack plate of fruit for her. I was deeply impressed. There's no better way to win the heart of a mother than the unbidden cherishing of her child!

Having scored points in decor and service, I expected the food to fall short of expectations which had now been set so high. But they soared over that hurdle, too. The menu is luscious and abounds with items I'd love to try. We ordered prime rib, thrilled that this steakhouse does both steak and rib. It was tender, juicy, and supremely aromatic. My daughter was treated to mac 'n' cheese with white truffle oil. I held my breath. Despite the haute twist, she devoured it. (Sure beats Easy Mac, mom!) Palates were cleansed between dishes with lovely, chilled sorbet shots. Even my smoked salmon salad was prepared with precision and artistry. Other guests thoroughly enjoyed the bone-in dry aged New York steak, cooked perfectly with streaks of red; the Japanese Kobe beef melted in mouths. Dish after dish was fresh and distinctive. I near jumped for joy when at the end of the evening, they served a gorgeous, homespun cherry cotton candy. Absolutely delightful.

Alexander's is a place that very evidently cares about what they do. And now, so do I. They have, and deserve, our continued attention.